Tuesday, 26 January 2010
Historical Facts About Betta Fish
Did you know that bettas have been a fascination for over 150 years now and this fascination originated in Siam...
Bettas in Siam all those years ago where known as Siamese Fighting Fish.
In Siam the siamese people used to fight bettas against each other for gambling purposes... The people of Siam would wager everything they owned including their homes and even their families.
The fighting bettas back then where actually quite dull and boring to look at unlike the colorful beauties that we see today in the fish tanks and aquariums around the world.
In fact, the bettas in siam 150 years ago used to hang out in ditches, puddles, slow moving streams and rice paddies.
Due to the living conditions back then the original wild betta back then had dirty green or brown fins.
As time went on, some of the prized fighting fish where handed on to other people and evolved under different living conditions.
Eventually some where shipped to Germany and the US where they really evolved into the beautiful specimens we see today.
It is really for the last 80 years or so that betta fish have undergone a total transformation that we see today.
Bettas in Siam all those years ago where known as Siamese Fighting Fish.
In Siam the siamese people used to fight bettas against each other for gambling purposes... The people of Siam would wager everything they owned including their homes and even their families.
The fighting bettas back then where actually quite dull and boring to look at unlike the colorful beauties that we see today in the fish tanks and aquariums around the world.
In fact, the bettas in siam 150 years ago used to hang out in ditches, puddles, slow moving streams and rice paddies.
Due to the living conditions back then the original wild betta back then had dirty green or brown fins.
As time went on, some of the prized fighting fish where handed on to other people and evolved under different living conditions.
Eventually some where shipped to Germany and the US where they really evolved into the beautiful specimens we see today.
It is really for the last 80 years or so that betta fish have undergone a total transformation that we see today.
Monday, 25 January 2010
What Size Tank is Right For a Betta Fish?
Just about 8 months back I bought my first Betta Fish.
I did a lot of research as to which size of betta tank i should house my new betta in. I searched through forums and other resources online hopefully to gain the information i needed on buying the correct size of tank for my new fish.
To say the least i was very dissappointed and frustrated when the advice i found about which size of betta tank varied drastically. Some said a bowl, some a vase, some a ten gallon tank.
Anyway, after my frustration I decided that i would write this little article and share my frustrations with other new betta owners about which size of betta tank to get for their new bettas.
Avoid a headache and much frustration prior to getting your betta tank...
The Misconception of the size of Betta Tank
There are so many varied opinions about which size of betta tank to get it's quite incredible.
Many say bettas survive perfectly well in tiny little fish tanks where others say they really need a large tank to thrive and do well in.
But which is right? Who's telling the truth?
Here's a little FACT about natural betta fish surroundings...
"Bettas are anabantoids, which means they can breathe atmospheric air thanks to a unique organ called the labyrinth. This accounts for their ability to thrive in low-oxygen water conditions that would kill most other fish, such as rice paddies, slow-moving streams, drainage ditches, and large puddles."
So What Size Of Betta Tank Do You Get?
To be honest with you, common sense tells you that you should get as big a tank as you can afford and easily manage. How can anyone justify that betta fish should be kept in vase, bowl or tiny little tank. And remember, large puddles, are LARGE puddles.
A large tank to us is still a relatively small space to a betta fish!
I bought my first betta tank from "Marine Depot" due to the fact that it has many reviewed products and i could see what was recommended and what was NOT!
So that is a BIG tip for you prior to buying your betta tanks or any other aquarium supplies for that matter, always buy from a reputable resource with reviews and feedback from customers.
If you go to Marine Depot and check out the prices of the tanks in the Betta Fish Supplies section of there site you will get a good idea of what you can expect to pay for a betta tank.
At the time of writing this article a small 1.25 gallon bettacube would set you back $24.99 where as an 8 Gallon Nano 180 Degree Half Moon Biotope Aquarium would set you back $99.99
Personally i reckon the bigger you can afford and manage the better for the betta.
Another thing you need to consider when buying your new betta tank is appearance...
Do you want a boring old tank? An exciting one with great-to-look at appeal?
A larger tank has much more scope for longevity and happiness for your betta fish. A fish tank can be much more than just a home for your betta fish, it can be a tranquil exotic piece of decor in your home that will wow your friends and relatives.
I have this article has given you a good insight to what you need and want from your new betta fish tank and i wish you good luck in looking after your new friend and companion, your betta fish.
The tank is just one on the things that you need to consider when looking after tropical fish, in this case a betta,check out my betta blog for lots of other great information you should know about when caring for betta fish.
A great resource to further your knowledge about caring for betta fish is the ebook "Betta Care Made Easy" which you check out by clicking here!
I did a lot of research as to which size of betta tank i should house my new betta in. I searched through forums and other resources online hopefully to gain the information i needed on buying the correct size of tank for my new fish.
To say the least i was very dissappointed and frustrated when the advice i found about which size of betta tank varied drastically. Some said a bowl, some a vase, some a ten gallon tank.
Anyway, after my frustration I decided that i would write this little article and share my frustrations with other new betta owners about which size of betta tank to get for their new bettas.
Avoid a headache and much frustration prior to getting your betta tank...
The Misconception of the size of Betta Tank
There are so many varied opinions about which size of betta tank to get it's quite incredible.
Many say bettas survive perfectly well in tiny little fish tanks where others say they really need a large tank to thrive and do well in.
But which is right? Who's telling the truth?
Here's a little FACT about natural betta fish surroundings...
"Bettas are anabantoids, which means they can breathe atmospheric air thanks to a unique organ called the labyrinth. This accounts for their ability to thrive in low-oxygen water conditions that would kill most other fish, such as rice paddies, slow-moving streams, drainage ditches, and large puddles."
So What Size Of Betta Tank Do You Get?
To be honest with you, common sense tells you that you should get as big a tank as you can afford and easily manage. How can anyone justify that betta fish should be kept in vase, bowl or tiny little tank. And remember, large puddles, are LARGE puddles.
A large tank to us is still a relatively small space to a betta fish!
I bought my first betta tank from "Marine Depot" due to the fact that it has many reviewed products and i could see what was recommended and what was NOT!
So that is a BIG tip for you prior to buying your betta tanks or any other aquarium supplies for that matter, always buy from a reputable resource with reviews and feedback from customers.
If you go to Marine Depot and check out the prices of the tanks in the Betta Fish Supplies section of there site you will get a good idea of what you can expect to pay for a betta tank.
At the time of writing this article a small 1.25 gallon bettacube would set you back $24.99 where as an 8 Gallon Nano 180 Degree Half Moon Biotope Aquarium would set you back $99.99
Personally i reckon the bigger you can afford and manage the better for the betta.
Another thing you need to consider when buying your new betta tank is appearance...
Do you want a boring old tank? An exciting one with great-to-look at appeal?
A larger tank has much more scope for longevity and happiness for your betta fish. A fish tank can be much more than just a home for your betta fish, it can be a tranquil exotic piece of decor in your home that will wow your friends and relatives.
I have this article has given you a good insight to what you need and want from your new betta fish tank and i wish you good luck in looking after your new friend and companion, your betta fish.
The tank is just one on the things that you need to consider when looking after tropical fish, in this case a betta,check out my betta blog for lots of other great information you should know about when caring for betta fish.
A great resource to further your knowledge about caring for betta fish is the ebook "Betta Care Made Easy" which you check out by clicking here!
Wednesday, 20 January 2010
Betta Fry Captured On Video
Was going through some of my favorite Betta sites and found this great video displaying Betta Fry someone had kindly submitted...
Don't these little bettas look beautiful?...
Leave your comments below betta lovers...
Don't these little bettas look beautiful?...
Leave your comments below betta lovers...
Tuesday, 19 January 2010
The Essentials Of Proper Betta Fish Care
Betta Fish, also known as Betta Splendens, Beta Fish and Siamese Fighting Fish, are inexpensive pets and can be quite lovely.
Technically, the Betta name refers to about fifty species, but is commonly used as if only Betta splendens is meant.
The biggest are normally only around three inches long.
Even though there are many stories of the fish surviving in very small containers, experts do recommend a three-gallon tank for best results and there is some controversy about how small a tank is really still acceptable.
Betta Fish are native to low oxygen waters, and don't normally need any aeration. They are tropical fish, and are best kept warm, however.
Some owners do claim that their Bettas act happier with an air filtration system even if the fish don't need it to survive. Bettas normally live two to three years, but in well cared for conditions, some have lived as long as ten.
Betta Fish are native to Thailand and Cambodia. The common name comes from the name of Siam, which is now Thailand, and the territorial battles the males conduct.
Like many members of the animal kingdom, the males are the gaudier looking, to better attract females.
The females tend to appear rather dull, and almost all Betta Fish sold are males for that reason. In the wild, they are dull greens and browns, but breeders have produced far more stunning color schemes.
Some believe that Bettas cannot be kept with other fish. This is not true. Multiple male Bettas is a precondition for battle.
Bettas with other fish around will still display and flare their fins, but won't see this as a mortal insult. They should not be kept in a tank with fish that are aggressive or that nip fins, and only one male should be present.
Female Bettas can usually play well with others, and there are cages to be used to separate male Bettas if they are kept in the same tank. These should prevent the fish from seeing each other.
Betta Fish can handle a surprising range of water conditions, but the water should be changed once a week or so, more often if the fish is kept in a small container.
They can be fed once a day, or twice if you desire, and aren't especially fussy about their food. There is specially formulated Betta food on the market.
In the wild, Bettas eat live food, insects and their larvae, and like it in fish tanks, but they will eat flakes and frozen food as well. Do not overfeed as this will require cleaning the tank more often.
When changing the water, remember to let the water sit for a day before using it in the tank with the fish to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
Good choices for Betta food are brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart, and may be used frozen or freeze dried. Flakes should be supplemented with other foods from the list.
Many note the odd bubble structures that male Betta Fish build in the water tank. This is perfectly normal. The male is building a nest in which to place eggs, once he successfully impresses a female.
Bettas prefer a pH between 6.8 and 7.4 and a hardness less than 20 dGH. The temperature should be between 75 and 86 degrees, or twenty-four to thirty for those who prefer Celsius.
In the wild, they live in rice paddies, ponds and slow moving streams, and are most comfortable near the surface.
One of the main arguments about the minimum size for the fish tank is heat. Below 75 degrees, the fish are increasingly listless and it is much easier to keep a larger tank at a stable temperature.
Bettas also require access to the surface, and will drown without it. There is a special organ, the labyrinth organ, allowing and requiring them to take oxygen from the air.
Because they live in still waters, power filters and power heads are not suitable.
Betta Fish are known for their lovely colors and fins, with a wide range of colors available. Blue to red with white are normal, and more spectacular colors like yellow and orange exist.
Metal poisoning easily kills betta fish, and exposed metal should not be used in decorations within the tank.
Decorations are important as they allow the fish places to hide, and a layer of gravel helps to provide surface area to grow nitrifying bacteria.
Decorations must be smooth and lack sharp points that can tear fins. Silk is preferred to plastic for artificial plants for this reason.
By: Sarah Munn
Technically, the Betta name refers to about fifty species, but is commonly used as if only Betta splendens is meant.
The biggest are normally only around three inches long.
Even though there are many stories of the fish surviving in very small containers, experts do recommend a three-gallon tank for best results and there is some controversy about how small a tank is really still acceptable.
Betta Fish are native to low oxygen waters, and don't normally need any aeration. They are tropical fish, and are best kept warm, however.
Some owners do claim that their Bettas act happier with an air filtration system even if the fish don't need it to survive. Bettas normally live two to three years, but in well cared for conditions, some have lived as long as ten.
Betta Fish are native to Thailand and Cambodia. The common name comes from the name of Siam, which is now Thailand, and the territorial battles the males conduct.
Like many members of the animal kingdom, the males are the gaudier looking, to better attract females.
The females tend to appear rather dull, and almost all Betta Fish sold are males for that reason. In the wild, they are dull greens and browns, but breeders have produced far more stunning color schemes.
Some believe that Bettas cannot be kept with other fish. This is not true. Multiple male Bettas is a precondition for battle.
Bettas with other fish around will still display and flare their fins, but won't see this as a mortal insult. They should not be kept in a tank with fish that are aggressive or that nip fins, and only one male should be present.
Female Bettas can usually play well with others, and there are cages to be used to separate male Bettas if they are kept in the same tank. These should prevent the fish from seeing each other.
Betta Fish can handle a surprising range of water conditions, but the water should be changed once a week or so, more often if the fish is kept in a small container.
They can be fed once a day, or twice if you desire, and aren't especially fussy about their food. There is specially formulated Betta food on the market.
In the wild, Bettas eat live food, insects and their larvae, and like it in fish tanks, but they will eat flakes and frozen food as well. Do not overfeed as this will require cleaning the tank more often.
When changing the water, remember to let the water sit for a day before using it in the tank with the fish to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
Good choices for Betta food are brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart, and may be used frozen or freeze dried. Flakes should be supplemented with other foods from the list.
Many note the odd bubble structures that male Betta Fish build in the water tank. This is perfectly normal. The male is building a nest in which to place eggs, once he successfully impresses a female.
Bettas prefer a pH between 6.8 and 7.4 and a hardness less than 20 dGH. The temperature should be between 75 and 86 degrees, or twenty-four to thirty for those who prefer Celsius.
In the wild, they live in rice paddies, ponds and slow moving streams, and are most comfortable near the surface.
One of the main arguments about the minimum size for the fish tank is heat. Below 75 degrees, the fish are increasingly listless and it is much easier to keep a larger tank at a stable temperature.
Bettas also require access to the surface, and will drown without it. There is a special organ, the labyrinth organ, allowing and requiring them to take oxygen from the air.
Because they live in still waters, power filters and power heads are not suitable.
Betta Fish are known for their lovely colors and fins, with a wide range of colors available. Blue to red with white are normal, and more spectacular colors like yellow and orange exist.
Metal poisoning easily kills betta fish, and exposed metal should not be used in decorations within the tank.
Decorations are important as they allow the fish places to hide, and a layer of gravel helps to provide surface area to grow nitrifying bacteria.
Decorations must be smooth and lack sharp points that can tear fins. Silk is preferred to plastic for artificial plants for this reason.
By: Sarah Munn
Betta Nests - Mouth Brooder Or Bubble Nest Betta
Betta nests are created by the male of the species. There are two types of betta breeders, and those are the mouth brooding betta and the bubble nest betta.
These types of breeding are very different, so different nests are built. These two types of betta nests have many similarities and differences.
How do you know which type you have? Let's take a look at the beautiful betta's nest building habits.
Bettas that build air-bubble nests on the bottom side of the surface of water do so when water conditions are not rapid.
In nature, if a betta gives birth in a fast moving stream or lake, they will keep the brood in their mouth, since the bubble nest would easily be destroyed by water movement.
In the aquarium, however, there is generally not rapidly moving water, so the male betta will suck air into his mouth and attach a layer of saliva to this air.
He then blows the bubbles out and they cling to the surface of the water.
When the fry are produced, the male moves them to this nest, and will protect it aggressively, even against his partner.
Make sure that you have some surface plants for these bubbles to cling to should your male betta decide to go this route.
If the male betta feels threatened, or feels that the water is moving too rapidly, he will take the brood into his mouth, and hold them there for 7 to 10 days for the fry to develop.
The bubble nest betta male may not eat during this entire time, and could begin to look sickly and thin.
This is normal behavior for these fish when making betta nests.
A dead giveaway that this is the case is that the male will generally back into a cave, or huddle at the surface of the water, with the female guarding him.
Regardless which of the betta nests your fish employs, a tight fitting cover or plastic wrap should be fitted over the tank to keep any cold air from reaching the surface.
A warmer betta temperature is a must for healthy growth. If when the fry are young, they receive any cold air when they swim to the top of their aquarium, they can catch pneumonia and die.
These are just a few of the steps to take when breeding bettas, and an in-depth betta care manual should be kept on hands at all times to handle any eventuality.
Want to double your betta's lifespan? Like to know ideal ongoing betta tank conditions? Need to know all about betta nests?
Get all your answers in this 20 year Betta Expert's Best-Selling instantly downloadable e-book Betta Fish Secrets.
These types of breeding are very different, so different nests are built. These two types of betta nests have many similarities and differences.
How do you know which type you have? Let's take a look at the beautiful betta's nest building habits.
Bettas that build air-bubble nests on the bottom side of the surface of water do so when water conditions are not rapid.
In nature, if a betta gives birth in a fast moving stream or lake, they will keep the brood in their mouth, since the bubble nest would easily be destroyed by water movement.
In the aquarium, however, there is generally not rapidly moving water, so the male betta will suck air into his mouth and attach a layer of saliva to this air.
He then blows the bubbles out and they cling to the surface of the water.
When the fry are produced, the male moves them to this nest, and will protect it aggressively, even against his partner.
Make sure that you have some surface plants for these bubbles to cling to should your male betta decide to go this route.
If the male betta feels threatened, or feels that the water is moving too rapidly, he will take the brood into his mouth, and hold them there for 7 to 10 days for the fry to develop.
The bubble nest betta male may not eat during this entire time, and could begin to look sickly and thin.
This is normal behavior for these fish when making betta nests.
A dead giveaway that this is the case is that the male will generally back into a cave, or huddle at the surface of the water, with the female guarding him.
Regardless which of the betta nests your fish employs, a tight fitting cover or plastic wrap should be fitted over the tank to keep any cold air from reaching the surface.
A warmer betta temperature is a must for healthy growth. If when the fry are young, they receive any cold air when they swim to the top of their aquarium, they can catch pneumonia and die.
These are just a few of the steps to take when breeding bettas, and an in-depth betta care manual should be kept on hands at all times to handle any eventuality.
Want to double your betta's lifespan? Like to know ideal ongoing betta tank conditions? Need to know all about betta nests?
Get all your answers in this 20 year Betta Expert's Best-Selling instantly downloadable e-book Betta Fish Secrets.
Monday, 18 January 2010
Betta Fish Fin Rot - Is Betta Fish Fin Rot Curable?
Betta fish fin rot is a bacterial infection that causes the fins and the tail of your fish to deteriorate.
They appear to look rotten and discolored. A normal betta fish should have vibrant colors, and the tail and fins should be fully extended and flowing in the water.
The primary cause of betta fish fin rot is inferior water quality.
Let's review the fundamentals of how your aquarium's water can get dirty:
- You aren't changing your fish's water frequently enough.
- You don't keep your aquarium's water temperature within a comfortable range for your fish.
- You don't remove or replace any rotting plants in your aquarium.
- You aren't properly cleansing the aquarium of all dirt, including the fish's excrement.
- You aren't removing excess, uneaten food from the aquarium.
Okay, so your fish has a bad case of fish fin rot. What should you do about it?
- Change the water and clean out your tank daily until the symptoms of fish rot subside.
- Some aquarium salt can help to kill off any lingering bacteria in the tank as well as off of your fish's skin. This should be available at your local pet store.
- Feed your fish some vitamins to help boost its immune system.
- Keep on feeding your fish a healthy, nutritionally balanced diet.
- As a last resort you can get medication for your fish.
It is amazing what a difference clean water can make, to cure betta fish fin rot!
You have saved your betta's life from the pet store's tiny cup. Now learn how to make your betta into the most comfortable, safe, and cared-for fish in the world.
If you are a true betta fish lover or animal enthusiast in general, then you should know that taking care of betta fish involves a great deal more than just doing the bare minimum, which is to change its water and feed it.
There is a lot more involved in properly caring for your fish, such as water quality, water temperature, the nature of the fish's habitat in terms of volume of space, rocks, plants, lighting conditions, whether or not you wish to breed your fish, and your fish's social interactions with other fish versus being kept in isolation.
If you want to keep your fish healthy, beautiful, active, energetic, and alive for as long as possible, then you have to be willing to go the extra mile in order to provide a better quality of life for your fish. And it all starts with a little bit of education.
Taking care of betta fish can truly be an extremely rewarding experience, so why not go the extra mile and learn everything that there is to know about the proper care, feeding, and nurturing of our little marine friends, the betta splendens (otherwise known as siamese fighting fish)?
Who else wants a beautiful, healthy betta fish, swimming happily in a stunning tank, without having to spend a bundle or constantly worry about your betta's health?
By: Pauline McCluskey
They appear to look rotten and discolored. A normal betta fish should have vibrant colors, and the tail and fins should be fully extended and flowing in the water.
The primary cause of betta fish fin rot is inferior water quality.
Let's review the fundamentals of how your aquarium's water can get dirty:
- You aren't changing your fish's water frequently enough.
- You don't keep your aquarium's water temperature within a comfortable range for your fish.
- You don't remove or replace any rotting plants in your aquarium.
- You aren't properly cleansing the aquarium of all dirt, including the fish's excrement.
- You aren't removing excess, uneaten food from the aquarium.
Okay, so your fish has a bad case of fish fin rot. What should you do about it?
- Change the water and clean out your tank daily until the symptoms of fish rot subside.
- Some aquarium salt can help to kill off any lingering bacteria in the tank as well as off of your fish's skin. This should be available at your local pet store.
- Feed your fish some vitamins to help boost its immune system.
- Keep on feeding your fish a healthy, nutritionally balanced diet.
- As a last resort you can get medication for your fish.
It is amazing what a difference clean water can make, to cure betta fish fin rot!You have saved your betta's life from the pet store's tiny cup. Now learn how to make your betta into the most comfortable, safe, and cared-for fish in the world.
If you are a true betta fish lover or animal enthusiast in general, then you should know that taking care of betta fish involves a great deal more than just doing the bare minimum, which is to change its water and feed it.
There is a lot more involved in properly caring for your fish, such as water quality, water temperature, the nature of the fish's habitat in terms of volume of space, rocks, plants, lighting conditions, whether or not you wish to breed your fish, and your fish's social interactions with other fish versus being kept in isolation.
If you want to keep your fish healthy, beautiful, active, energetic, and alive for as long as possible, then you have to be willing to go the extra mile in order to provide a better quality of life for your fish. And it all starts with a little bit of education.
Taking care of betta fish can truly be an extremely rewarding experience, so why not go the extra mile and learn everything that there is to know about the proper care, feeding, and nurturing of our little marine friends, the betta splendens (otherwise known as siamese fighting fish)?
Who else wants a beautiful, healthy betta fish, swimming happily in a stunning tank, without having to spend a bundle or constantly worry about your betta's health?
By: Pauline McCluskey
Ten Tips for Caring for Your Betta Fish
Betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish are one of the most popular types of fish found in homes across the world.
Their vibrant color and active lifestyle seems to draw in fish fanatics as well as those who have never had fish before.
Bettas are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don't have a lot of time to care for them.
Once you bring your Bettas home you should begin to familiarize yourself with their movements and typical behavior patterns.
When you look at your fish after you've had them for a while you'll know if something is wrong, if they are not feeling well, or if the water in their bowl is not in the best condition simply by being observant.
1. Make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.
2. Your Betta will thrive in the cleanest water that you can provide for him. He does not require a filtration system, but you should change out a third of his water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your finned friend from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water (water that has set out for twenty four hours) is what should be used to replace the old water.
3. Do not put your Betta fish with other Bettas. They are called Siamese fighting fish because they are, in fact, fighting fish. They will tear at one another, often causing the death of at least one fish before they stop. Bettas can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely.
4. Use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of the bowl or jar. Allowing this debris to sit at the bottom of the jar will cause the water to become cloudy, unsanitary, and to smell awful.
5. The PH of your tank should be at exactly 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.
6. When you clean the plants, rocks, or decorations in the bowl you should never use soap on them. It's very hard to completely rinse all soap from these items and the soap residue can harm or even kill your Betta. Instead, use warm water and an abrasive brush to clean his things.
7. Keep your Betta tank, jar, or bowl covered! Your Beta will jump and you don't want him to end up flopping on the tabletop! Keeping the water level at least two inches from the top of the tank should also cut down on this problem.
8. Your Betta is a meat eater and likes live foods, such as brine shrimp the best. Frozen bloodworms are also a good choice for your meat eater. Most Betta fish will happily eat the Betta pellets sold at most pet stores.
For a special treat every now and again you should offer some live food!
You'll have fun watching him eat it up!
9. Do not decorate your Betta bowl with rocks or marbles that may cause your Betta to get stuck between or under them. Be sure that they are a flat smooth surface that provides no risk to the health of your fish.
10. Remember that your fish is a living, breathing responsibility. You need to feed, clean, and care for your Betta just like you would any other pet. If he's sick take him to the vet, if he's hungry feed him, if his home is dirty, clean it.
That's it! These ten tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish. Internet Betta Groups or library books can be a great source of information should you want to learn more about your finned friend!
Adam Short is the owner of Betta Fish Center and co-wrote the above article with Amanda Fenton. Amanda has been caring for Betta fish for over 25 years. She is a contributing writer to http://www.bettafishcenter.com - site providing information and tips on betta fish care.
Their vibrant color and active lifestyle seems to draw in fish fanatics as well as those who have never had fish before.
Bettas are relatively easy to care for and their low maintenance is particularly appealing to people who would like to have fish but don't have a lot of time to care for them.
Once you bring your Bettas home you should begin to familiarize yourself with their movements and typical behavior patterns.
When you look at your fish after you've had them for a while you'll know if something is wrong, if they are not feeling well, or if the water in their bowl is not in the best condition simply by being observant.
1. Make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is big enough so that he can swim around and not bump or tear his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough oxygen.
2. Your Betta will thrive in the cleanest water that you can provide for him. He does not require a filtration system, but you should change out a third of his water every three days so it stays fresh and clean and keeps your finned friend from getting bacterial or fungal infections. Aged water (water that has set out for twenty four hours) is what should be used to replace the old water.
3. Do not put your Betta fish with other Bettas. They are called Siamese fighting fish because they are, in fact, fighting fish. They will tear at one another, often causing the death of at least one fish before they stop. Bettas can be coupled with algae eaters, guppies, or corydorus catfish safely.
4. Use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of the bowl or jar. Allowing this debris to sit at the bottom of the jar will cause the water to become cloudy, unsanitary, and to smell awful.
5. The PH of your tank should be at exactly 7.0. You can get a PH testing kit at your pet store along with solutions to minimize or increase the PH of your water.
6. When you clean the plants, rocks, or decorations in the bowl you should never use soap on them. It's very hard to completely rinse all soap from these items and the soap residue can harm or even kill your Betta. Instead, use warm water and an abrasive brush to clean his things.
7. Keep your Betta tank, jar, or bowl covered! Your Beta will jump and you don't want him to end up flopping on the tabletop! Keeping the water level at least two inches from the top of the tank should also cut down on this problem.
8. Your Betta is a meat eater and likes live foods, such as brine shrimp the best. Frozen bloodworms are also a good choice for your meat eater. Most Betta fish will happily eat the Betta pellets sold at most pet stores.
For a special treat every now and again you should offer some live food!
You'll have fun watching him eat it up!
9. Do not decorate your Betta bowl with rocks or marbles that may cause your Betta to get stuck between or under them. Be sure that they are a flat smooth surface that provides no risk to the health of your fish.
10. Remember that your fish is a living, breathing responsibility. You need to feed, clean, and care for your Betta just like you would any other pet. If he's sick take him to the vet, if he's hungry feed him, if his home is dirty, clean it.
That's it! These ten tips for caring for your Betta fish will have you well on your way to keeping a healthy fish. Internet Betta Groups or library books can be a great source of information should you want to learn more about your finned friend!
Adam Short is the owner of Betta Fish Center and co-wrote the above article with Amanda Fenton. Amanda has been caring for Betta fish for over 25 years. She is a contributing writer to http://www.bettafishcenter.com - site providing information and tips on betta fish care.
How To Take Care Of Betta Fish - Steps To Becoming A Successful Owner
I can't think of anything more trying than a type of pet you are confused about how to correctly care for.
Whether caring for Betta fish, dogs, cats, reptiles and so on, they all have in common a few lessons you need to learn to have any hopes of being a flourishing fish owner: What living conditions does it favor/need?
What type of food should I give to it? What size portions do I want to I feed it?
What can cause my pet to fall ill? How can I avoid the mistakes that cause sickness and ailment?
This editorial serves as an starting guide for providing your finned friend the best life possible while also providng you with resources you will find to be of assistance in caring for betta fish.
Tank setup and requirements. To start off, let's talk about living space. You might have been told that these fish take up residence in little puddles in Asia.
Well, I want to be the very first to fill in you in as to the fact that this is a load of you-know-what.
While Betta fish native to south-eastern Asia, the rice paddies that they live within are typically over one to two feet in depth and often expand for many, many miles.
Keeping this in consideration, it's no wonder why these pets frequently become unhappy and ill in those "clever" one gallon Betta cubes/vases.
So really: Buy the biggest Betta home that is feasible for your budget/living space conditions, for this I would reccommend anywhere from 5-10 gallons for a single Betta fish.
Once you get a hold of your tank, you want to have a heater that will easily maintain a healthy temperature between 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.
In order to promote good bacteria growth while at the same time catching dirty particles, you will also make sure to use a small fish tank filter.
"What to eat, what to eat?" In the realm of Betta fish sustenance wou might find yourself faced with a plethora of choices. The very first choice you'll need to make is between live foods and formulated foods.
Unlike in the human world, the engineered Betta pellets and flakes most often than not are the superior option.
Meaty foods will nearly always be a eagerly accepted snack, even so, these types of foods are very high in fats and protein while being ridiculously low in necessary nutrients.
Don't take what I have to say the wrong way, when caring for Betta fish it is completely OK to serve live foods, but merely as a addition to a pellet/flake diet.
The dispute between whether to use flakes or pellets is much less "obvious", yet I've very often found pellets to be the best choice.
This is because, unlike flakes, pellets are almost always standardized in size, because of this it is easy to observe your Betta fish's eating in number of pellets, whereas flake food intake might fluctuate when estimating the size of each individual piece of food.
Warning symptoms of an ill fish. Betta fish are, regrettably, generally susceptible to sicknesses, both parasite carried and environment induced. The top warning inidcators to be observant for are...
Exhaustion/non-activity
Lack of interest in food
Distended or ballooned stomach/sides
Gasping for oxygen at the top of fish tank
Whether caring for Betta fish, dogs, cats, reptiles and so on, they all have in common a few lessons you need to learn to have any hopes of being a flourishing fish owner: What living conditions does it favor/need?
What type of food should I give to it? What size portions do I want to I feed it?
What can cause my pet to fall ill? How can I avoid the mistakes that cause sickness and ailment?
This editorial serves as an starting guide for providing your finned friend the best life possible while also providng you with resources you will find to be of assistance in caring for betta fish.
Tank setup and requirements. To start off, let's talk about living space. You might have been told that these fish take up residence in little puddles in Asia. Well, I want to be the very first to fill in you in as to the fact that this is a load of you-know-what.
While Betta fish native to south-eastern Asia, the rice paddies that they live within are typically over one to two feet in depth and often expand for many, many miles.
Keeping this in consideration, it's no wonder why these pets frequently become unhappy and ill in those "clever" one gallon Betta cubes/vases.
So really: Buy the biggest Betta home that is feasible for your budget/living space conditions, for this I would reccommend anywhere from 5-10 gallons for a single Betta fish.
Once you get a hold of your tank, you want to have a heater that will easily maintain a healthy temperature between 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.
In order to promote good bacteria growth while at the same time catching dirty particles, you will also make sure to use a small fish tank filter.
"What to eat, what to eat?" In the realm of Betta fish sustenance wou might find yourself faced with a plethora of choices. The very first choice you'll need to make is between live foods and formulated foods.
Unlike in the human world, the engineered Betta pellets and flakes most often than not are the superior option.
Meaty foods will nearly always be a eagerly accepted snack, even so, these types of foods are very high in fats and protein while being ridiculously low in necessary nutrients.
Don't take what I have to say the wrong way, when caring for Betta fish it is completely OK to serve live foods, but merely as a addition to a pellet/flake diet.
The dispute between whether to use flakes or pellets is much less "obvious", yet I've very often found pellets to be the best choice.
This is because, unlike flakes, pellets are almost always standardized in size, because of this it is easy to observe your Betta fish's eating in number of pellets, whereas flake food intake might fluctuate when estimating the size of each individual piece of food.
Warning symptoms of an ill fish. Betta fish are, regrettably, generally susceptible to sicknesses, both parasite carried and environment induced. The top warning inidcators to be observant for are...
Exhaustion/non-activity
Lack of interest in food
Distended or ballooned stomach/sides
Gasping for oxygen at the top of fish tank
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